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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.